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Food & Feast: A bowl of 'just right'

Elevated porridge for an enticing morning routine
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Porridge in its many forms is a worldwide and ancient phenomenon.

I’m a morning person. Whether this is by default or design is up for debate, as growing up I regularly partook in early-start activities that had me at school by 7 a.m.. My dad is also a morning person. He grew up on a working farm in Olds, Alberta, often putting my 7 a.m. starts to shame with 5 a.m. chores.

He then became a physician, and early mornings remained a staple in his schedule, which meant that he had the honour of chauffeuring me to my various crack-of-dawn extracurriculars. He didn’t mind and neither did I. Our quiet mornings before the other members of our household had fully arisen remain some of my fondest memories. We wouldn’t say much to each other while our bodies and minds slowly woke up, but our shared routines and rituals got us calmly out the door, rarely with a sense of frantic rush.

One such ritual began the evening prior as my dad laid out all the ingredients needed to make morning porridge. Having two Irish parents, porridge was less a breakfast option than a way of life for him, and I fondly remember big pots of oats gurgling away at my grandmother’s house whenever we visited. I adopted my dad’s ritual, as we shared porridge in the wee hours before heading off to our early endeavours.

This unassuming-yet-grounding routine set the tone and pace for the day ahead, and even now in this season of new motherhood and the chaotic swirl it sometimes brings, I’ve found myself anchored by this ingrained respect for morning routines, and stick-to-your-ribs satisfying breakfasts.

A few years ago, while visiting a friend in London, England, I found my reverence for porridge fortified upon discovering a charming and trendy little breakfast joint called 21 Grains in Covent Garden. I was lured there by the promise of their buzzed-about porridge bowls, with ingredients and descriptions that felt fresh and exciting. One was adorned with plum and bay compote, lemon cream, almonds, cinnamon and thyme, and another with chia pudding, blackberries, almond butter, cacao and fresh mint. I was inspired and comforted to see others passionate about porridge.

There are many other restaurants and cafés throughout the world that offer unexpected and elevated takes on gruel, and if you go on even a short stroll down a porridge-inspired Pinterest board, you’ll see some remarkable masterpieces.

I tell you all this as a friendly reminder to perhaps give porridge another try if you’ve sworn it off as boring or bland, or if you’ve seen these artistic iterations and feel like they’re unattainable in your already stretched morning time situation.

Clearly, I’m passionate about porridge, and my mission is to prove that oatmeal is anything but “oatmeal,” or that an artistic bowl of breakfast-time beauty is more accessible than you might think. In my mind, porridge is perhaps the perfect intersection of simple comforts and a limitless palette of creativity and innovation. It’s prep-ahead friendly and immensely filling.

The number of bases, toppings and iterations are endless, and it lends well to seasonal inspiration. So, if it’s encouragement and the eternal challenge of where to start that are holding you back, I offer some of my top tips for making your bowl of porridge not too boring, not too elaborate, but “just right,” as our pal Goldilocks might say.

Clearly, I’m passionate about porridge, and my mission is to prove that oatmeal is anything but “oatmeal,” or that an artistic bowl of breakfast-time beauty is more accessible than you might think.

Not-so-basic base

Porridge in its many forms is a worldwide and ancient phenomenon. Steel cut oats in Ireland, teff in Ethiopia, quinoa in the Andes, farro throughout the Mediterranean, bulgur throughout the Middle East and millet throughout Asia – the porridge base is as varied. Therefore, my first tip is to get out of that rolled-oat rut and try a new grain, or even a combination of grains.

Add in some seeds as you stew it for additional texture and taste. A ground flax or chia will smooth out a grittier grain like millet or bulgur and offer a wealth of nutritional benefits such as additional omega 3, 6, and 9. The more grains (and seeds) you experiment with in general, the more nutrient variety you’ll access, as they each contain their own unique makeup of various vitamins and minerals. So don’t hold back, and play around with a multi-grain (and -seed) mix.

Be fluid with your liquid

Most grain-cooking instructions will call for water, but I recommend trying out something creamier for the most luxurious texture. Classic cow milk is a great traditional choice, or you can opt for a non-dairy version such as coconut, almond or hazelnut, all of which offer something a bit different.

Because the goal is to create a softer mushier texture, you don’t have to be as fussy about liquid ratios and cook times. My general rule when making a porridge base is to double the amount of liquid you would need to cook the grain regularly. So, if the basic teff instruction says 1 cup of teff to 1.5 cups of liquid, up the liquid to 3 cups. You may need to add more liquid as you go, especially if you’re like me and prep the base ahead of time and reheat before enjoying (often grains absorb more liquid as they sit).   

Learn to love layering

The key to almost any good dish is layering various textures and flavours that are contrasting yet complementary. The same theory applies here. Something creamy like yogurt, chia pudding, a chocolate sauce or a nut or seed butter offers a smooth accompaniment to the grain base.

Some crumbled crunchy nuts, seeds or coconut chips break up a more homogenous consistency. Chopped dried fruit is not only sweet and tangy, but also texturally exciting with an added chewiness. Pair the dried fruit with fresh, fried or stewed fruit (such as a compote or a coulis) and you’re delivering even more flavour and textural juxtapositions that are pleasing to the palate.

Go on, get a little spicy

One of the easiest, simplest ways you can spice up an otherwise bland bowl of mush is to do just that…add some spice! When stewing my grains, I almost always add some cinnamon, a bit of vanilla, a pinch of sea salt and then whatever other seasoning inspires me: nutmeg, clove, ginger, cardamom…sometimes all of it!

Don’t be scared of savoury

Picturing a bowl of porridge, one often thinks of sweet and cozy like apples and cinnamon, but a whole world opens up when you realize you can add any ingredients you want, especially those more on the “savoury” spectrum. Congee (Chinese rice porridge) is often served with an egg, and, of course, in Italy, risotto (essentially a cheesy creamy porridge) is a popular dish eaten at various meals throughout the day.

To give your grain base more of a savoury edge, cook it with broth, and then play around with toppings like sautéed veggies, micro-greens and eggs. Even mixing and matching sweet and savoury can be particularly transcendent: try adding herbs and balsamic vinegar to a fruit compote, and then pairing it with a rich and creamy cheese like mascarpone.

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Millet and Chia Pudding Porridge. Lia Crowe photo

Millet and Chia Pudding Porridge with Honey Fried Bananas, Coconut and Lime

*Makes about 2 servings

Ingredients

½ cup millet

2-3 tbsp ground flax

2-3 cups coconut milk (start with 2 cups and add more if needed)

1 tsp pure vanilla extract

Sea salt

1 tsp cinnamon

¼ tsp ginger

Coconut oil or butter

1-2 bananas, peeled and sliced in half lengthwise

1 tbsp honey (plus extra for drizzle)

½ cup chia pudding, divided

⅓ cup coconut yogurt, divided

Zest of one lime

¼ cup chopped cashews, divided

Optional garnish of coconut flakes

Directions

*Note: you’ll need to make the chia pudding ahead of time. To do so, combine 5 tbsp chia seeds with 1 cup coconut milk and 1 tsp of honey in a sealable jar (like a medium-sized mason jar). Give it a good stir or secure the lid and give it a big shake, making sure all the seeds are evenly dispersed in the milk. Let sit overnight in the fridge and stir before serving.

In a medium-sized pot, bring the milk to a boil. Add the millet, ground flax, vanilla, sea salt and spices, reduce to a simmer, cover and cook, stirring occasionally until all the liquid has been absorbed and you have a creamy porridge consistency (this may take 20 to 30 minutes and may require adding more milk at some point). Remove from the heat and set aside.

Meanwhile, heat a frying pan to medium-high heat. Add a small amount of coconut oil or butter (about 1 tbsp) and honey (about 1 tbsp) and then the sliced banana. Fry on each side for a minute or two, until the banana slices are caramelized on each side. Set aside.

To assemble, spoon 1 cup of the cooked millet-flax mix into a bowl, layer with some fried banana, about a ¼ cup of chia pudding and a couple spoonfuls of coconut yogurt, and then top with some chopped cashews and the lime zest. Drizzle with honey, if desired, and a sprinkling of coconut flakes. Repeat for the second bowl and enjoy!

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Cardamom Bulgur Porridge. Lia Crowe photo

Cardamom Bulgur Porridge with Fresh Figs, Hazelnut and Chocolate Tahini Sauce

*Makes about 2 servings

Ingredients

½ cup bulgur

2-3 tbsp ground chia seeds

1 ½ to 2 cups hazelnut milk, divided (start with 1 ½ and add more if needed)

2 tsp pure vanilla extract, divided

Sea salt

1 tsp cinnamon

¼ tsp cardamom

Butter

½ cup bittersweet chocolate chips

¼ cup tahini

4-6 fresh figs, cut in half

⅓ cup Greek yogurt, divided

¼ cup chopped hazelnuts, divided

Maple syrup or honey for drizzle

*Shown here with optional garnish of edible flowers

Directions

In a medium-sized pot, bring the milk to a boil. Add the bulgur, ground chia, sea salt, vanilla and spices, reduce to a simmer, cover and cook, stirring occasionally until all the liquid has been absorbed and you have a creamy porridge consistency (this may take 20 to 30 minutes and may require adding more milk at some point). Remove from the heat and set aside.

Meanwhile, heat a small saucepan to medium. Melt 2 tbsp butter, and then add the chocolate cups, tahini and a couple tbsp remaining milk. Reduce heat to low and stir/whisk consistently until the chocolate is melted and the sauce is smooth. Remove from heat and set aside.

To assemble, spoon about 1 cup of the cooked bulgur-chia mix into a bowl and layer with a couple spoonfuls of Greek yogurt. Top with a few fig halves and some chopped hazelnuts. Drizzle with the chocolate tahini sauce and a bit of maple syrup or honey if desired. Repeat for the second bowl and enjoy!

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5-Grain Savoury Porridge. Lia Crowe photo

5-Grain Savoury Porridge with Tamari Shiitakes and Six-Minute Eggs

*Makes about 2 servings

Ingredients

½ cup five-grain mix (equal parts pearl barley,
quinoa, farro, teff and rice)

2-3 cups broth (start with 2 cups and
add more if needed)

Sea salt

2 eggs

1 loose cup shiitake mushrooms

1 tsp tamari sauce

1 tbsp sesame seed oil

1-2 radishes, thinly sliced, divided

1 spring onion, sliced, divided

½ loose cup micro-greens, divided

Optional garnish of sesame seeds

Directions

In a medium-sized pot, bring the broth to a boil. Add the grain mix, some sea salt (unless your broth is already quite salty), reduce to a simmer, cover and cook, stirring occasionally until all the liquid has been absorbed and you have a creamy porridge consistency (this may take 20 to 30 minutes). Remove from the heat and set aside.

Meanwhile, bring a small saucepan filled with water to a boil. Using a slotted spoon, gently place the eggs in the boiling water, turn the heat down to low, cover and cook the eggs for 6 minutes. Once cooked, place the eggs in an ice bath, and allow them to cool before peeling and slicing in half.

Heat a saucepan to medium-high heat. Add the sesame seed oil, mushrooms and tamari sauce. Sauté until soft and slightly crispy on some edges. Remove from the heat and set aside.

To assemble, spoon about 1 cup of the cooked five-grain mix into a bowl and arrange some radish slices, a halved egg, some microgreens and a bit of chopped spring onion on top. Garnish with some sesame seeds, or any other toppings you’d like, repeat with the second bowl and enjoy!

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Steel-cut Oats. Lia Crowe photo

Steel Cut Oats with Bay Plum Compote and Mascarpone

*Makes about 2 servings

Ingredients

½ cup steel cut oats

1 ½ to 2 cups milk (start with 1 ½ and add more if needed)

1 tsp pure vanilla extract

Sea salt

1 tsp cinnamon

⅛ tsp clove

Olive oil or butter (about 1 tbsp)

2 loose cups sliced plums (I used Italian plums)

1 tsp balsamic vinegar

1 tbsp maple syrup (plus extra for drizzle)

2 bay leaves

About ½ cup mascarpone, divided

2 tbsp to ¼ cup smooth almond butter, divided

1 loose cup fresh blackberries, divided

¼ cup chopped almonds, divided

Optional garnish of hemp hearts

Directions

In a medium-sized pot, bring the milk to a boil. Add the steel cut oats, vanilla, sea salt and spices, reduce to a simmer, cover and cook, stirring occasionally until all the liquid has been absorbed and you have a creamy porridge consistency (this may take 20 to 30 minutes and may require adding more milk if necessary). Remove from the heat and set aside.

Meanwhile, heat a small saucepan to medium. Add a small amount of olive oil or butter (no more than 1 tbsp) and then the sliced plums, balsamic vinegar, maple syrup and bay leaves. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and cook, stirring occasionally for about 10 minutes, until the plums are soft and stewed. Uncover and cook on simmer for a few more minutes until it thickens slightly. Set aside.

To assemble, spoon about 1 cup of steel cut oatmeal into a bowl and layer with a couple spoonfuls of plum compote and some mascarpone, and then top with a few blackberries and some chopped almonds. Drizzle with almond butter and a bit of maple syrup if desired, and garnish with a sprinkling of hemp hearts. Repeat for the second bowl and enjoy!

This feature appeared in the winter 2023 edition of Boulevard Vancouver.