The problem became apparent the moment we stepped into our corner suite at North Vancouver’s Seaside Hotel. What struck us first – even before we noted the cosy-looking king bed or the egg-shaped swing hanging near the window or the bathtub beside a floor-to-ceiling window in the expansive marble bathroom – was the breathtaking view.
The entire wall facing the ocean was glass and looked directly across the water at the Vancouver skyline. This room had so many little touches and comforts, the problem was obvious…we weren’t going to want to leave it.
Already, our visit to North Vancouver had been a revelation. My husband and I started our day hiking with our canine travel companion, Zorro, in Capilano Canyon – just one of four canyons and multiple hiking options in North Vancouver. Choosing to enter the area at the Cleveland Dam, we drove up, out of the city, through a residential area and, within minutes, were staring across the Capilano Reserve at Grouse Mountain.
It seemed impossible that this wilderness could be so close to an urban area. After crossing the bridge above the dam, we entered a huge forest with multiple criss-crossing paths that swallowed up all the hikers, leaving us seemingly alone on the trails.
From here, we drove down to Lower Lonsdale, North Vancouver’s oldest neighbourhood – and another revelation. The area extends four blocks up Lonsdale Avenue and two blocks east and west, but its heart is The Shipyards on the waterfront.
As we explored this bustling district, full of shops and eateries, we found Shipbuilders’ Square, where a community stage presents concerts, plays, markets and buskers at various times throughout the year, and Shipyard Commons, a covered public space for year-round gatherings, with a splash park in the summer and an outdoor skating plaza in the winter.
Also nearby is Lonsdale Quay, where a SeaBus connects the North Shore to downtown Vancouver. I was glad I set aside time to explore the Quay Market & Food Hall, with its 80-plus shops and food vendors selling everything from unique clothing to handmade chocolates.
Public art abounds at The Shipyards, much of it commemorating the thousands of people who worked here from 1906 to 1992. Apparently, over 450 ships were launched from this site during the many years of shipyard operations.
And the Seaside Hotel? Located right in the middle of all this wonderfulness!
After our hike and exploration of The Shipyards, the rest of our first day revolved around food – so many options! For lunch we settled on the dog-friendly porch of Raglan’s Bistro with its cosy and colourful tiki-vibe, great food menu and intriguing cocktail list.
For dinner, we chose to bring a delectable array of seafood from the hotel’s exclusive restaurant, Seaside Provisions, back up to our room (remember our problem?). The atmosphere inside the restaurant is warm, welcoming and buzzing with energy, while the menu presents a quandary for any seafood-loving diner.
Between the raw bar (including oysters and ceviche), the small plates (like tacos and lobster rolls) and the mains (scallops, seafood pasta, risotto and steak frites), selection was tricky. And while our dinner was divine, it turns out that happy hour at Provisions is the real locals’ go-to event. It runs Tuesday to Sunday 3 to 6 pm, with daily drink specials and half-price small plates.
Day two began with an early dog walk along the North Shore Spirit Trail, a clearly marked 35-kilometre greenway that will ultimately extend from Horseshoe Bay to Deep Cove. My walk meandered along the waterfront, through a float home community and past an off-leash dog park. But you can only get so far on foot!
So, later that morning, we put Zorro into a backpack and rented e-bikes from Reckless Shipyards. With pedal power, we quickly zipped along the trail, eventually cycling under the Lions Gate Bridge and all the way to Ambleside Park in West Vancouver. Every time I get on an e-bike, I am reminded of how wonderful it is to explore on two wheels with a little help on the hills! If we didn’t have a full itinerary set for the day, we could easily have spent the next several hours exploring North Van on the bikes.
But we had plans, and those plans included beer! The Shipyards Brewery District features some eight breweries that line East Esplanade Avenue, just a block up from the Seaside Hotel.
The North Shore claims fame to the birth of Canada’s craft beer-brewing boom started back in 1982, when Horseshoe Bay Brewery began brewing Bay Ale. That microbrewery is long gone, but the North Shore abounds with enough breweries to be a destination on the BC Ale Trail – and we enjoyed a few hours sampling their wares in cute, dog-friendly roadside patios.
But then? Another shock as we stepped through a door and into a whole different world. Esplanade Avenue is a busy industrial street, noisy at times. But a hush fell over us as we entered Copperpenny Distillery Co. and met owner Jennifer Kom-Tong for a tour of this new gin distillery that has already won multiple awards. Jen and her husband Jan Stenc spent 25 years in the film industry, travelling the world as set decorators, and you can immediately sense this influence. Set up like a European cocktail lounge, the tasting room – where you can sample gin, order classy cocktails and enjoy bar bites – is both lavish and cosy. It could not be more different than the street outside.
Both Jen and Jan grew up in North Vancouver and, while they don’t have a background in distilling, their creativity and dedication to perfection have resulted in the perfect cocktail of flavour. Sitting at the exquisite bar, we sampled several gins, impressed with all, but most intrigued by the unique oyster shell gin, created in partnership with Fanny Bay Oysters. To say we were simply impressed with this distillery would be a massive understatement.
And so it turned out that Copperpenny, along with the Seaside Hotel, Capilano Canyon and everything else, all amounted to yet another “problem:” we don’t live in North Van.
But no worries, we’ll be back.
DO: Hike! North Vancouver is built on the lower slopes of mountains that rise almost a mile above sea level, and is composed of six mountain peaks: Black, Strachan, Hollyburn, Grouse, Fromme and Seymour. With all these valleys, canyons and mountains, this is a Mecca for hikers, climbers and mountain bikers. The hardest part might be deciding which area to explore first.
SEE: Visitors to The Shipyards District can enjoy a bit of culture exploring a range of exhibits at MONOVA (The Museum of North Vancouver), located near the Lonsdale Quay. Also in the area, the Polygon Gallery features contemporary art with a focus on photography, emphasizing contemporary work within the context of historical and international art.
EAT: If you love seafood and a cool dining experience, Fishworks is a must-do—but make a reservation! This restaurant—with its high ceilings, natural wood accents and art from local artists—specializes in fresh, sustainably harvested seafood and a diverse wine selection. We had the seafood tower ($78 for two), feasting on an abundance of oysters, scallops, prawns, clams and mussels, crab legs, lobster tails and calamari. Swoon.
SLEEP: Seaside Hotel is a dog-friendly boutique property with 71 deluxe rooms and suites with stunning panoramic views. Our corner suite was probably one of the most memorable rooms we have ever stayed in—stylish, unique and extremely spacious. The view of the Vancouver skyline, revealed or concealed via motorized window coverings, changed as the hours went by, ending each day in a mesmerizing display of distant city lights.
This story appeared in the Fall edition of Boulevard Vancouver.
