Sitting on an outdoor patio at Amaterra winery, overlooking the lush hillside and distant cityscape, and sipping a truly fine pinot noir, my husband Bruce and I reviewed our day exploring Oregon wine country.
It was early August, and we were here to take in Portland, nearby wineries and an annual music festival called Pickathon. So far, nothing disappointed, and it had been an absolute revelation to discover the glory of Oregon wines, especially the pinot noir, which happens to be my go-to red.
Our tour today took us winding through the picturesque Tualatin Valley, which sits in the northwestern edge of the Willamette Valley, Oregon’s leading wine region and home to two-thirds of the state’s wineries and vineyards. You can find almost 800 wineries across the valley from Portland south to Eugene.
After enjoying the drive from downtown Portland through wide-open stretches of rural landscape, we followed the signs to Elk Cove Winery, circling our way up a pretty, residential hillside, and gasping as we drove through the gates to meet a magical vista of lush rolling vineyards and distant hills. Sampling a flight of red and white wines and partaking in a snack on the vineyard-view patio, we agreed the rich flavours of the wine lived up to the glorious setting.
A short drive away, we wandered into the historic white farmhouse and tasting room at David Hill Winery. The farmhouse, originally built in 1883, opens up to a serene outdoor patio, cushioned amid the sprawling vineyards and mountains views. The farm is 140 acres with 40 acres of pinot noir, pinot gris, riesling, chardonnay and Gewürztraminer and some of the oldest vines in the state.
But it is the pinot noir varietal that reigns supreme in Oregon, and we revelled in a flight of silky samples.
And now at Amaterra, we have sampled yet another glorious flight of wine. We have also enjoyed dinner overlooking this spectacular vista and selecting from a menu laden with seasonal dishes with locally sourced ingredients. Amaterra opened in January 2022; it boasts a 46,000-square-foot facility with a 12-acre vineyard, located in the West Hills area of Portland. The location makes it a simple rideshare away from the heart of downtown, and we easily navigated Uber rides there and then back to our hotel.
Portland
After arriving in Portland, which is an easy 5.5-hour drive from Vancouver, we found our way to the Heathman Hotel, located in a lovely, quiet, treed neighbourhood. The hotel has been a Portland landmark and cultural fixture since it opened in 1927. It’s hard to miss the towering shelves and gleaming chandelier in the hotel library, where guests can unwind with a coffee or drink, surrounded by 2,700 books, many signed by notable authors. The rooms are both sophisticated and modern, and the restaurant is renowned for its Pacific Northwest cuisine. But it is the location that really sets the Heathman apart.
From here, we walked everywhere, even discovering a Wednesday market that popped up in nearby Shemanski Park. We browsed the wares of some 30 vendors selling farm-fresh food, flowers and much more amid the peaceful greenery.
Setting out to the famed Pearl District on our first night, we stepped down from sidewalk level into a cool bar called Fools and Horses for an enjoyable drink and oysters. But the main event that night was a sushi feast at the renowned Janken. The first thing you notice entering this popular spot is a massive cherry blossom tree, with its flowery canopy bursting in a heavenly pink above the diners. Everything here is thoughtfully curated, from the lampshades to the little lights on the bar and even the minimalist tiling. The motto of this place is everything is “better together” because most of the dishes are created to be shared.
For breakfast, we dined the first morning at the The Daily Feast and – loving its excellent food and classic diner feel – we returned the next day as well. On our final night, we walked to the trendy Slabtown district and enjoyed dining and people-watching on the patio at Solo Club. Often seen as the unofficial “waiting room” for Besaw’s – a famed 1903-era restaurant – located next door, Solo Club is run by renowned mixologist David Rodriguez, and it’s the place to go if you like creative cocktails.
With just a few days in Portland, and a tantalizing number of tourist attractions, it was hard to decide what to take in. But we love to walk, and the weather was warm and wonderful, so we headed out to the Portland Japanese Garden, where paths wind through a quiet forest, past cascading waterfalls, serene ponds and manicured bonsai trees.
In the same area, we discovered the International Rose Test Garden, a floral paradise boasting over 10,000 roses of various colours and fragrances. Established in 1917, it’s the oldest public rose test garden in the United States, and its proof of the good vibes that come from the adage “stop and smell the roses.”
Fulfilling a love of history and architecture, we also toured Pittock Mansion, which is perched atop Portland’s West Hills. Built in 1914, this French Renaissance-style chateau showcases panoramic views of the city, and its opulent interiors feature exquisite craftsmanship, period furnishings and fascinating exhibits detailing the lives of its former residents, media mogul Henry Pittock and his wife, Georgiana Pittock.
For our final adventure, we hopped aboard a Portland Spirit Cruise, and motored gently along Willamette River, learning about Portland’s waterfront landmarks and a bit of its history.
Pickathon
For the final leg of our journey, we travelled to nearby Pendarvis Farm in Happy Valley for the kaleidoscope of sound and visual artistry that is Pickathon. This music festival is one-of-a-kind, weaving together a stunning, rolling farm and forested setting, art installations that range from towering sculptures to whimsical interactive exhibits, great musical acts and an impressive commitment to the environment.
Exploring the grounds is a bit like traversing an enchanted forest, where magic emerges around every corner. All of the seven outdoor stages (there are some indoor stages as well) are set in their own environment, with their own food and drink vendors, art installations and, ultimately, their own unique atmosphere. The Woods Stage, for example, is located deep in the forest, set to a backdrop of artfully woven wood and cathedral-like trees, and surrounded by tenting spots.
Arriving at the venue, you’re given a cup to use for any drink of your purchases. And the first time you buy food, you buy a plate, which you then use for all your food, exchanging it for a clean version as you go along. With these two small steps, plus having no packaging on any of the food merchandise, garbage was eliminated from the festival. So simple and yet so transformative, especially since it’s common to see overflowing garbage cans and recycling bins at big events.
Pickathon has a number of other things going on, including “Curation,” a special ticketed event that pairs some of the musical acts with Portland chefs and mixologists for a long-table meal in a stunning, private space. The Curation design team gathers edible flowers, native plants, salvaged items and organic materials to augment the lush natural setting. The result is something to behold.
We loved the relaxed vibe of Pickathon, clapping and dancing along with the many musical acts, which included both established and emerging artists and a nice variation of genres.
This is a special music festival, and attending it topped off a memorable trip to Oregon, where pinot, Portland and Pickathon amount to a marvellous medley.
This feature appeared in the summer 2024 edition of Boulevard Central Island.
